Morocco
MOROCCO & THE SAHARA
The Sahara desert stretches across parts of ten countries, but Morocco has always been its most important northern gateway. From time immemorial the oases of southern Morocco were the major termini of the great trading caravans that brought gold, slaves, and ivory from centres such as Timbuctoo in the African interior. The old trading caravans are long gone, but in southern Morocco it is still possible to travel at the pace of the camel in the company of desert people, through a fantastic landscape of mountains, plains and sand-dunes.
This camel trek takes place in one of the most remote regions of Morocco – a world of palm-groves and ancient fortress-villages, inhabited by tribes of both Arab and Berber descent, many of whom still migrate to the high pastures of the Anti-Atlas with their flocks of goats and sheep. A region of eroded rocky outcrops, deep sided wadis, and rolling vales, it lies south of the Atlas foothills. Alternating between volcanic rock and sandy sheets, between mystical, arid plains, high rolling dunes, and tiny oases where men graze their animals, this is an ideal area for trekking or camel-riding.
TRIP PROFILE
On this two week trip we cross the desert between Tazzarine & Merzouga, travelling as Moroccan nomads have done for centuries. Taking almost no modern technology, we carry our entire world on camelback, with no prearranged camps, and no motor support. Moving at the steady pace of 4 to 5 km (2-3 miles) an hour, we pass into an alternative dimension. We cover an average of 22 km (about 14 miles) a day, on foot or by camel, experiencing the peace and harmony that comes from a closer connection with the Earth.
ITINERARY
Day 1
Arrival into Marrakech Airport. Check into the Hotel. In the late afternoon, visit the Medina and the Djema al-Fna. Night at the hotel.
Day 2
Journey by minibus to Tazzarine across the High Atlas mountains via the Tizi’n’Tichka pass. Descending the Draa valley from Ouarzarzate, we turn off the main road, following the Oued Ousrai through the village of N’Kob, arriving at the oasis of Tazzarine in the late afternoon. Night in a small auberge.
Day 3
Meet camels and camel-men. Set off with the caravan through rocky outcrops and sand-dunes, passing through the villages of Timganine and Seghdrar, and heading south towards Taghbalt. Camp in the desert.
Day 4
Pass the village of Taghbalt situated on both sides of the wadi, we follow the winding course of the dry-wash, beneath steep rocky walls, passing through palm-groves and hamlets where Berber families tend their goats and sheep. Camp in the desert near Houda.
Day 5
We follow the dry river-bed through shady palm plantations as far as the village of Techka, nestled in a bend in the wadi, then head along a rocky mountain-trail to the oasis of Oum Jrane, a centre of the Ait ‘Atta tribe. Camp near Oum Jrane.
Day 5
We follow the dry river-bed through shady palm plantations as far as the village of Techka, nestled in a bend in the wadi, then head along a rocky mountain-trail to the oasis of Oum Jrane, a centre of the Ait ‘Atta tribe. Camp near Oum Jrane.
Day 6
Leaving Oum Jrane behind us, we enter a vast plain, where we join the ancient caravan route from Zagora. We pass through a deep gorge with a rocky escarpment on one side, and sand-dunes covered with tamarisk trees on the other, heading for Atshanat wells. Camp in sand dunes.
Day 7
We water the camels at the wells then pass on across black desert into low dunes, approaching the village of Tafraoute Sidi Ali, across a long, flat sebkha. Camp on high ground near Tafraoute.
Day 8
We climb the slopes above Tafraoute, crossing a single dune-barrier, then descend slowly through a deep gorge with sheer black walls. We pass through a bottle-neck at the end of the gorge, and halt for lunch in a grove of acacia trees. In the afternoon we press on through alluvial fans, dry river-basins, deep wadis, and thick tamarisk groves, to Ramliyya village. Camp near Ramliyya.
Day 9
We trek along the edge of a salt-pan, cross successive waves of dunes, then descend on to a stony plain. In the afternoon we climb up into the hills, following winding tracks, and make camp inside a wadi on a vast plain. Camp in the desert.
Day 10
We pass the village of Janin, crossing great open plains, through tamarisk groves, and across salt-plains: we climb through the heart of Djebel Filon Famarine, descending into the small oasis of Latrous. Camp in the desert.
Day 11
We traverse the Wadi Ziz, a wide sebkha criss-crossed with channels shrouded in tamarisk, and dominated by the huge pillars of old acacias. We approach the great Erg Chebbi, and spend the rest of the day trekking through dunes as high as 150 feet. Camp in the dunes.
Day 12
A two-hour trek brings us to the village of Merzouga, where we say goodbye to our camels and rendezvous with our minibus and driver. As we drive through palm-groves and mud-brick villages, passing through Rissani, part of the Tafilalet oasis. Journey across the passes of the High Atlas, through the great cedar forests, descending slowly to the city of Fez. Night at a hotel in Medina.
Day 13
Full day in the Medina of Fez – a labyrinth of thousands of alleys and winding covered passages, where mules are still used to transport goods. In the morning you tour with a professional guide, visiting the Al Attare Madrasa, the Chouara tannery, the metal-smiths souk, caravanserais and traditional weavers. After lunch in the Medina, you have the chance to explore the souks alone. Night at a hotel.
Day 14
Transfer to Fez airport and return home.
ADDITIONAL PICTORIALS
