On the last day of my visit to Rabia, she welcomed me to her small camp – a simple hut built near an old acacia tree, where low dunes met an area of thorn bush. She laid out a rug under the tree, and brought water and tea.
I explained that I was leaving, and asked if she had any parting advice. ‘There is only one important thing I can tell you,’ she said. ‘Always walk the Path of Beauty.’
For a moment I didn’t get it. The word ‘beauty’ in Arabic – jamaal – is almost the same as the word for ‘camels’ – jumaal. It sounded to me as if she was saying ‘always walk on the Path of Camels’.
When I queried this, she laughed. ‘It is the same thing,’ she chuckled. ‘The Path of Beauty is the path of camels, but also the path of harmony, joy, wholeness and goodness. Most of all, it is the path of balance. When we remember that we are not alone, but part of each other, of everything else that exists – part of the Great Spirit, al-Haqq -the Real – walking the Path of Beauty is easy.’
‘But how do I stay on the Path?’
‘There is a feeling that guides us. The right choice feels good, because it harmonizes with our true self, our deepest nature. It points away from self-importance and putting our own desires before the interests of all.’
‘But it is possible to make the wrong choice isn’t it?’
‘Of course, people do stray from the path. It takes an effort, though, because it means going against our own nature. Sooner or later, those who stray from the Path of Beauty are likely to get stuck in deep sand.’
I stood up, and we shook hands. She wished me God’s speed.
I led my camel across the soft sand of the dunes, towards the camp of Rabia’s clan, where I was due to meet Rafig for the journey back. As I stopped to mount up I turned and saw the kahina still standing, watching me. I waved, and she waved back.
I couched my camel and mounted, then began to ride along the camel-track that led to my destination. Whatever Rabia had said, I knew it wouldn’t be easy to remain on the Path of Beauty. If I did happen to stray, though, at least I would be ready for that feeling, and I would know.